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If you’re moving wires, installing new wires, or installing new fixtures in the space you’re insulating, then you will need to hire a licensed electrician to do that portion of the job for you. However, if you just intend on replacing old insulation or adding new insulation over existing insulation, then you don’t need to hire one. Your insulation installer will work around wiring, fixtures, outlets, and switches, even if they’re installing fiberglass batts in the voids where wires run. However, you will need an electrician if you suspect a problem with your wiring during the insulation work.

Closed-cell spray foam insulation itself serves as a vapor barrier (or vapor retarder). However, you may need to install a vapor barrier if you have open-cell spray foam insulation. When in doubt, work with a professional insulation contractor, as they can provide more detail about the specific needs of your home in your climate.

R-30 insulation is better for higher thermal resistance, but whether it’s "better" depends on the application. R-30 is much thicker and suited for areas like attics or floors in cold climates, where more insulation is required. R-13, on the other hand, is thinner and works well for 2x4 walls or milder climates where less insulation is sufficient. Choosing between R-13 and R-30 depends on the area being insulated and the climate. For example, R-30 provides more insulation but may not fit everywhere in your home.

One of the disadvantages of soffit vents is they can bleed warm air from the attic during winter, resulting in slightly higher energy bills and a colder house. There are ways to mitigate this effect—mostly just closing the vent in the fall. What’s most important is your attic is ventilated to some degree in the winter.