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The hydroseed mix—known as a slurry—helps grass seed take root in many ways. Water combines with the mulch, allowing the grass seed to stay moist while grounded in the soil. The extra fertilizer then provides the boost the seed needs to flourish. In just a few weeks, you'll be ready to break out the lawnmower again.

You should add 1 to 4 inches of mulch, depending on your garden type and needs. Keep in mind that no amount of mulch can completely prevent weeds, but a heavier coverage (closer to 4 inches) can suppress weeds enough that you are only seeing them sprout every few weeks. Finer mulch prevents weeds more effectively than large mulch, so if you’re using mulched leaves or shredded bark, 1 to 2 inches will likely suffice, while 3 to 4 inches is best for larger mulch, like bark chips or straw.

Sealing pavers helps cut down on weed growth, but it won’t wipe it out entirely. What it does really well is harden the joint sand—especially if you’re using a sealant with polymer additives—so weeds have a much harder time breaking through. It also blocks airborne seeds from settling in the cracks and keeps debris from building up. This results in fewer weeds, easier maintenance, and a cleaner-looking surface. Just remember, sealing is a strong defense—not a one-and-done solution. Stay on top of sweeping, spot-treating, and resealing every few years to keep your weeds in check.

The best time to fight crabgrass with pre-emergent herbicide is when forsythias tend to bloom. In the mid-Atlantic region, this is usually between April and May. Even if you're late to apply the herbicide, it’s effective as long as the crabgrass plant has fewer than five leaves.