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The proper specifications for furring strips can vary, so you should always consult the roofing manufacturer's guidelines or your roofer. However, general recommendations are as follows:

• Thickness: Furring strips are typically 1 to 1-1/2 inches thick, meaning standard 1-by or 2-by lumber works well. In areas with extreme winds, a thinner strip may be preferred to limit how much air can get under the roof and cause uplift. A thicker strip can add slightly more insulation but will also increase installation costs.

• Spacing: The recommended spacing for furring strips is between 12 and 24 inches apart on center. Proper spacing is crucial for ensuring good airflow, adequate drainage, noise reduction, and better energy efficiency. The ideal spacing can depend on the roof's pitch and the specific type of metal roofing being installed.

Fall is widely considered the best time of year to replace a roof. The moderate temperatures are ideal for roofing crews to work and for new shingles to seal properly. Additionally, autumn weather is often drier, reducing the risk of weather-related delays compared to the rainier spring season.

While spring is also a viable option, the higher chance of rainfall can slow down the project. The main drawback to a fall installation is that it's the peak season for roofers, which can lead to higher prices and scheduling challenges.

To potentially save money, you could consider scheduling your roof replacement during the summer or winter off-seasons. However, both seasons have significant disadvantages. Extreme summer heat can make shingles too soft to handle, while winter's cold, snow, and ice can create dangerous working conditions and prevent shingles from sealing correctly, as they typically require temperatures above 40-45°F.

Roof raking can damage shingles if improperly done. Be sure to use a rake that’s designed specifically for removing snow from a roof, and don’t use excessive pressure. Light, consistent pressure to pull down the bulk of the snow is all that’s needed—if you clear right down to the shingles, you’re probably using too much force and risking roof damage.

Gable vents are more common in older homes built before the 1970s. Homes built after this era use ridge vents or soffits, but you can sometimes find homes with both gable and ridge vents. Gable vents can have a purely aesthetic purpose, while ridge vents hide in the roof shingles so air can flow under the roof while keeping the attic dry.