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Unfaced wall insulation is easier to cut and install, making it the better choice for a DIY project. It’s also more affordable. But if it’s unfaced, you’ll likely need to add a vapor barrier to reach your desired R-value and efficiency, as it doesn’t offer any moisture barrier.

Faced insulation uses paper or foil to create a built-in barrier and doesn’t require an extra step. It’s also more fire-resistant and safe. But it’s quite a bit more expensive and a little bit harder to work with as a DIYer.

Monolithic slabs don’t require insulation, but many homeowners choose to have their contractors install insulation under the slab during construction. This can help improve home efficiency even more and keep indoor temperatures more stable. Slab foundations are more energy-efficient than uninsulated crawl spaces and basements, and insulated slab foundations are more energy-efficient than insulated crawl spaces and basements.

If you’re using faced insulation with paper, face the paper toward the inside of the room during the installation process. 

A good way to remember this is that the paper should face the “warm side” as it’s the vapor barrier, meaning it should face toward where the heat will be coming from.

If you need to insulate behind finished walls, the best option will likely be to have an insulation professional install blown-in insulation. The installation requires small holes cut in your wall, after which the installer can blow loose-fill insulation into the void. After the installation, you’ll have minor drywall patching, which shouldn’t cost more than $100. Compared to ripping down the existing drywall, using a different type of insulation, and replacing and finishing the drywall, this should save you hundreds or even thousands, depending on the size of the room you’re insulating.