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If you don’t want to remove the sink stopper, pour ½ cup of baking soda and 2 cups of boiling water down the drain. Start by pouring 1 cup of boiling water, then the baking soda, followed by the remaining cup of boiling water. Use caution as boiling water can damage PVC or other plastic piping. Using a scrub brush or slightly abrasive sponge, clean the top of the stopper, and run the faucet to ensure the drain is clear and the stopper is clean. 

To unclog the drain pipe, remove the machine's drain hose from the pipe or sink drain, being careful to contain any water in it. Next, use a plunger for sink drains or a plumbing snake for a wall drain. Test the repair by pouring a small amount of water into the pipe before trying it with a laundry load.

Deteriorated seals, O-rings, or gaskets are common culprits behind a leaky sink after you’ve turned off the water—especially if your sink is older than 15 years. Inspect each of these mechanisms in your sink for signs of corrosion or looseness, then replace the worn-out part to fix it. Older sinks may be worth replacing if several of the parts are worn-out.

Basement toilets don’t always need a pump. However, it is the most common setup because plumbing systems use gravity to move waste away from the home. Basement toilets often sit below the home’s main sewage system, and installing a sewage ejector pump pushes the wastewater and sewage up to the main sewer line. Alternatively, you can use an upflush or macerator toilet that breaks down the waste and pushes it straight to the main sewer line rather than via a sewer line from the bathroom.