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Overall, a paver driveway is considered the easiest to maintain because homeowners are able to do driveway repair one piece at a time without impacting the rest of the driveway. Unlike paved options, paver driveways contain individual stones that aren't physically connected. By comparison, you may need to reseal or redo a full asphalt driveway if just one portion sustains a significant crack.

Three inches is a great thickness for a residential asphalt driveway that sees minimal to moderate traffic from cars, SUVs, and pickup trucks. However, a thicker driveway can better withstand the weight of a heavier vehicle, such as a trailer or a recreational vehicle. If you drive a heavy vehicle on a thin driveway, you risk cracking and damaging it.

Wet cutting is usually the preferred method. It controls dust, which helps protect your lungs and makes for a cleaner working environment. Plus, the water cools the blade, preventing overheating and prolonging its life while providing smoother, more precise cuts. The downside is the mess—water and asphalt sludge can be messy to clean. Dry cutting, though convenient if water isn’t available, creates a lot of dust, which can be harmful. This also increases the risk of blade damage due to overheating. So, if you have the option, wet cutting is the better method for most asphalt jobs.

Asphalt and tarmac are not the same thing. Traditional tarmac, short for tarmacadam, uses tar as a binder to hold crushed stone together. Asphalt uses bitumen—a byproduct of crude oil—to bind aggregate. Though tarmac was once a go-to for roads, asphalt has become the modern standard. And these days, most surfaces referred to as “tarmac” are actually asphalt. So, while the names may overlap, the key distinction lies in the binder—tar for tarmac and bitumen for asphalt.