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If you’re using faced insulation with paper, face the paper toward the inside of the room during the installation process. 

A good way to remember this is that the paper should face the “warm side” as it’s the vapor barrier, meaning it should face toward where the heat will be coming from.

Radiant barriers and insulation serve different purposes, so one is not inherently better than the other. Radiant barriers reflect radiant heat, helping keep spaces cool, especially in hot climates, while insulation slows heat transfer through conduction. For optimal energy efficiency, it’s best to use both together. 

Radiant barriers can enhance the performance of insulation by preventing heat gain in the summer and heat loss in the winter. The choice between them depends on specific climate conditions and the building’s design requirements.

You do not always need to remove old insulation before adding new. If the existing insulation is in good condition—not wet, physically damaged, moldy, or infested with pests—you can add new insulation directly on top of it for a compounding effect. You can also mix different types, such as adding blown-in insulation around existing fiberglass batts.

However, removal is recommended if the old insulation is compromised by water damage or pests. You should also remove it if you plan to install a different type of insulation, like switching from roll or batt insulation to spray foam. If the existing insulation is very old or damaged, you will likely get more benefit from removing it and starting fresh.

Mineral wool has an excellent life expectancy of up to 50 years, provided it's kept dry and free of pests. Compared to fiberglass, with a life span of 20 to 30 years, mineral wool stacks up well for long-term cost savings. Sheep wool maintains a similar life span to fiberglass, while estimates for hemp wool insulation life expectancies are all over the board, ranging anywhere from 20 to 100 years.