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When installing board and batten siding, make sure there is wall sheathing and a moisture-resistant barrier installed. Behind that sheathing should be plywood or OSB for you to nail the boards and battens into. If there isn’t plywood or OSB, you can install vertical furring strips at 1½- to 2-foot intervals to nail the boards and battens to.

While fiberglass is dangerous to work with, it’s a perfectly safe material once it’s installed. If you’re tackling the installation yourself, make sure you take the proper safety precautions and wear the right gear to avoid skin and eye irritation and lung complications. Working with a professional insulation company can mitigate these risks.

If you need to insulate behind finished walls, the best option will likely be to have an insulation professional install blown-in insulation. The installation requires small holes cut in your wall, after which the installer can blow loose-fill insulation into the void. After the installation, you’ll have minor drywall patching, which shouldn’t cost more than $100. Compared to ripping down the existing drywall, using a different type of insulation, and replacing and finishing the drywall, this should save you hundreds or even thousands, depending on the size of the room you’re insulating.

Vapor barriers in attics are a bit outdated and most areas no longer recommend them for attic spaces. For vented attics, the best method is usually to install drywall and cover it with latex paint before attaching insulation fiberglass, cellulose, or foam insulation. When renovating an attic to use as a living space, a contractor can guide you on the best way to cover insulation.