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The ideal depth of a tree notch depends on the tree, but it should usually be between 20% and 25% of the tree’s depth. However, if the tree is leaning towards the direction of the notch, it can be cut more shallowly—at as little as 10% of the depth. When the tree is leaning away from the direction it needs to be felled, you can cut deeper, closer to 30%.

Most trees can be successfully transplanted while they are young, but pines, walnuts, and some oak tree varieties are more difficult to move because their root systems grow deeper than most other trees. Also, trees adapted to sandy soil with wide root systems like beeches, willows, and aspens are harder to dig out because their roots spread much farther out from the trunk. In these cases, unless the trees are very young and small, it’s a good idea to consult a tree planting professional.

It depends. Smaller, younger trees take longer to mature, but they're more resilient, their roots don't get as damaged during transplanting, and they recover faster. Plus, they're much more affordable to plant, and it's possible to DIY the planting. 

On the other hand, mature trees produce fruit faster and provide more shade and privacy immediately. Ideally, a small or medium tree is the better choice if you can wait a few years for it to mature. But if you need immediate maturity, a larger tree is the only option.

You may be looking to identify maple trees to use for home improvement projects. In that case, you can tell hard maples by looking at their leaves. Leaves will have a U-shaped dip, or sinus, between the points, or lobes, of the leaves. Leaves of soft maples tend to have V-shaped sinuses.

If you already have the cut wood in front of you, look for a light, uniform color to identify hard maple wood and check for variations of red, gray, or brown streaks and an overall darker color in soft maple wood.