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Spreading tin foil over your windows works similarly to radiant barrier insulation, but not as well. It will reflect some of the sunlight that would otherwise come through the glass and warm up the inside of your home, so it might help a little to keep your home cool in the summer. However, the appearance isn’t preferable to blinds or drapes that can offer the same benefits. You might also consider tinting your windows instead, which is a more aesthetically pleasing change that can still block a good portion of the solar heat coming through your windows.

A moisture or vapor barrier helps separate the warm air inside your home from the cold air outside of it. Without it, your walls could collect condensation, mold, or other damage. Check your local building codes to see if including an interior vapor barrier is necessary for your building project or renovation, especially for rooms that are likely to be humid, like bathrooms.

If you need to insulate behind finished walls, the best option will likely be to have an insulation professional install blown-in insulation. The installation requires small holes cut in your wall, after which the installer can blow loose-fill insulation into the void. After the installation, you’ll have minor drywall patching, which shouldn’t cost more than $100. Compared to ripping down the existing drywall, using a different type of insulation, and replacing and finishing the drywall, this should save you hundreds or even thousands, depending on the size of the room you’re insulating.

When installing board and batten siding, make sure there is wall sheathing and a moisture-resistant barrier installed. Behind that sheathing should be plywood or OSB for you to nail the boards and battens into. If there isn’t plywood or OSB, you can install vertical furring strips at 1½- to 2-foot intervals to nail the boards and battens to.