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Unfaced wall insulation is easier to cut and install, making it the better choice for a DIY project. It’s also more affordable. But if it’s unfaced, you’ll likely need to add a vapor barrier to reach your desired R-value and efficiency, as it doesn’t offer any moisture barrier.

Faced insulation uses paper or foil to create a built-in barrier and doesn’t require an extra step. It’s also more fire-resistant and safe. But it’s quite a bit more expensive and a little bit harder to work with as a DIYer.

Yes, you can install insulation over ductwork, and doing so can save you money. Without insulation, the HVAC unit must work harder to force warm or cool air around the home, and once the air reaches the vent, it may not be the correct temperature. Insulating HVAC ducts makes your system work more efficiently, saving you money on heating and cooling bills.

In addition to adding insulation to your attic, you may want to add a radiant barrier. A radiant barrier works by using reflective material, such as foil, on the attic floor. As heat penetrates the roof and enters the attic, the radiant barrier reflects the heat upward and back through the roof. If you receive a lot of direct sunlight on the roof, using both a radiant barrier and insulation in your attic can provide significant benefits.

For standard 2x4 walls, the ideal insulation has an R-value between R-13 and R-15. This level of insulation, typically around 3.5 inches thick, fits well within the wall cavity. Common options include fiberglass batts and spray foam. The best choice for your home can depend on your climate; use R-value maps, like those from Energy Star, to determine the recommended level for your region. For colder climates, you might also consider adding exterior insulation for greater efficiency. Always check with your local building codes to ensure you meet any required standards.