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R-30 insulation is better for higher thermal resistance, but whether it’s "better" depends on the application. R-30 is much thicker and suited for areas like attics or floors in cold climates, where more insulation is required. R-13, on the other hand, is thinner and works well for 2x4 walls or milder climates where less insulation is sufficient. Choosing between R-13 and R-30 depends on the area being insulated and the climate. For example, R-30 provides more insulation but may not fit everywhere in your home.

Yes, you can install insulation over ductwork, and doing so can save you money. Without insulation, the HVAC unit must work harder to force warm or cool air around the home, and once the air reaches the vent, it may not be the correct temperature. Insulating HVAC ducts makes your system work more efficiently, saving you money on heating and cooling bills.

You don’t need to staple insulation, as your drywall and studs will hold it into place. But if you already have a staple gun and staples lying around, it can help keep the product in place and avoid any shifting. But, most experts agree it’s an unnecessary step.

If you’re adding a vapor barrier, you will need to staple that in place.

A radiant barrier is a form of insulation topped with a reflective material designed to keep homes cool during hotter months. It is generally considered worth the investment if you live in a hot, sunny climate, as the cost can be recouped over time through lower energy bills. Installation costs typically range from $0.10 to $1 per square foot. After installation, homeowners in warm climates may save between $7 and $15 per month, potentially reducing their electric bill by 5% to 10%. The exact savings will vary depending on your location and the type of barrier chosen.