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Often, your existing ceiling fan can accommodate adding a light fixture. The wiring is typically below the fan motor. If you’re adding a ceiling fan to where a light fixture used to be, ensure the electrical mounting box is rated for that use or retrofit one in the location. Not all types of ceiling fan mounting brackets support adding light fixtures.

Identifying the source of noises is your first step to soundproofing a room without overspending. Generally, sound comes from inside or outside of the house. Inside noises include creaking floors, living noises like TVs in the living room, cooking sounds, or kids being kids. External noises generally include incremental weather, disturbing neighbors, and street traffic. Inside noises require you to soundproof floors, ceilings, and doors, whereas outside noises may require you to soundproof your attic, windows, and walls facing the streets.

If you’re replacing an old fixture with a ceiling fan, you usually won’t need a permit, but if your electrician runs new wiring for the fixture, you likely will need a permit. Building permits are necessary in most municipalities if you’re making changes to your electrical system, so even if you have partial wiring run to the area and need new wiring installed for added functionality, you’ll probably need a permit. Your electrician should be able to let you know if you need one, and they’ll typically file the paperwork for you.

The direction your ceiling fan spins helps create comfortable airflow in your home and can also help cut down on energy costs. 

During summer, your ceiling fan should spin counterclockwise. This will push cooler air downward in a column and help lower your room’s air temperature. In the winter, set your ceiling fan to spin clockwise and at the lowest speed setting. This will pull cool air upwards, displacing the warm air that pools towards the top of your ceiling and bringing it down towards the floor.