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The best way to clean your decking is to clear debris from the gaps between the boards, sweep the surface, rinse it, apply cleaner, rinse again, and let it dry fully. A homemade deck cleaner made of two gallons of warm water and 1/2 cup vinegar is a simple cleaning solution for both wood and composite decking. You can sprinkle baking soda on any spots with mold or mildew, then scrub the area and rinse clean. 

Before installing any materials under the deck for removing moisture, you should perform some prep work on the ground. Work the dirt under the deck to create a grade away from the home. A grade of at least six inches for every 10 feet works well. Do not leave a gap between the dirt and the home’s foundation where water could pool. Once you or a contractor regrades the dirt under the deck, you then can add materials over the top.

Any wood deck provides some ventilation to the area below, as is the nature of that type of deck design. However, areas that experience excessive humidity and associated moisture benefit greatly from a dedicated ventilation system in the form of strip vents. This addition helps the various wood boards contract and expand evenly throughout the years and reduces the chances of twisting, warping, and buckling.

Yes. Freestanding or floating decks are exactly what the name implies—structures with their own support beams. You can build a deck yourself and place it next to a house for the illusion of a connected deck without the hassle. Or you can construct it in a separate part of your yard for a dedicated outdoor entertainment space. For the purpose of removing a freestanding deck, the steps are the same as an attached deck, but you don’t have to cut the deck away from the home.