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Professional installers often include a deep layer of crushed gravel under permeable pavers to allow more runoff to soak through into the soil below. Many installations will include multiple layers of gravel, with coarser aggregate at the base and finer aggregate that sits on top of that bottom layer. Above the gravel, you’ll often find coarse sand that helps reduce paver shifting over time. Some permeable paver designs include a water collection system set into the gravel layer to route runoff to a safe area for disposal.

If your driveway is cracked, you can repave it with a process called asphalt overlay. Overlay is more cost-effective than a full replacement but is better suited for minor cracks and issues. If you have major cracks or other problems like water pooling, asphalt overlay isn’t your best bet. Plus, paving over a cracked driveway only extends the lifetime by about 10 years, whereas replacing it would start the clock over completely to give you up to 30 years.

If you wish to break up a cracked or broken paver for removal, you can use a hammer or mallet and a chisel to fragment the paver. As you’re working, be careful not to disturb surrounding pavers; the key is to work slowly and steadily and remove the broken pieces gently. You should also wear a mask and goggles to ensure that no dust gets into your eyes, nose, or mouth as you work.

The stones do not work well on uneven ground. If the stones are not buried into the ground and made level upon installation, they almost certainly will shift or crack on uneven ground. Additionally, rainwater or water from sprinklers can run under the edge of an uneven paver, causing erosion. In a freeze and thaw cycle, trapped water under the paver can cause the problem to worsen by shifting the stepping stones around. Use a bubble level to make sure the ground under each paver is as even as possible, even if the nearby ground is uneven.