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Winterizing your outdoor plumbing keeps your outdoor spigot from freezing and potentially bursting. This includes draining residual water out of the pipe and spigot after turning the valve off, then removing garden hoses and other attachments from the spigot before winter comes. Insulating the pipe that leads to the spigot and installing a freeze-proof faucet also help, as does installing an outdoor faucet protector.

Unless your cellulose insulation is wet, moldy, or showing signs of mildew or pests, there’s no need to remove it before adding new insulation on top of it. Inspect your insulation thoroughly before adding the new insulation, and if you’re unsure how to assess the presence of mold or mildew, talk to a mold remediation specialist near you.

R-30 insulation is better for higher thermal resistance, but whether it’s "better" depends on the application. R-30 is much thicker and suited for areas like attics or floors in cold climates, where more insulation is required. R-13, on the other hand, is thinner and works well for 2x4 walls or milder climates where less insulation is sufficient. Choosing between R-13 and R-30 depends on the area being insulated and the climate. For example, R-30 provides more insulation but may not fit everywhere in your home.

Mineral wool wraps are the most affordable and effective insulation for crawl space ducts. They are easy to cut, last for a long time, and healthier for humans. Meanwhile, fiberglass wraps are cheaper but more hazardous and difficult to handle. If you do choose to use a fiberglass wrap, make sure you are wearing long sleeves and wear proper protective gear.