
Discover the average wall sconce installation cost, key price factors, and ways to save on your lighting project. Get transparent, expert-backed cost info.
Turn your wall into a well-lit masterpiece
You can illuminate your space in style with a wall sconce. If you’re installing a new sconce that doesn’t already have an installation area and electrical box in place, you’ll have to manually wire the sconce yourself. While wiring one may sound like a job for the pros, we’re here to shed light on the steps for the DIY determined. Follow along as we guide you through the electrifying journey of learning how to wire a sconce with a switch.
Before starting this project, make sure that the power in the working area is turned off. You’ll also need to check if there are water pipes that run behind the wall. If so, go to the main water shut-off and turn the water off.
Locate the electrical outlet closest to the placement of the wall sconce. This is where you’ll draw power for the new sconce from, especially if you’re installing a light in a spot where there wasn’t one before.
Next, it’s time to determine the height at which you want to install the wall sconce. The recommended height depends on the intended use of the sconce and what location it’s in. Consider which direction the sconce points in, the height of the fixture, and the type of sconce. Remember to measure from the floor upwards.
If you’re unsure, below are some recommended height ranges for select areas of the home:
Bedroom: 48 to 60 inches
Kitchen 55 to 60 inches
Bathroom 60 to 65 inches
Use a stud finder to locate the wall studs. Behind the drywall, you’ll find two vertical wall studs that will be located roughly 14.5 inches apart. Your sconce will be installed in between these two studs. Use painter's tape to mark their location.
Using your painter’s tape, mark both the location of the sconce and the wall light switch between the two studs. It’s recommended that the light switch be around 48 inches high. If your sconce comes with a switch on it, you can skip steps related to installing and wiring a separate light switch below.
Use a pencil to mark the location of the light box hole. Your sconce fixture will likely come with a paper template to trace this. If it doesn’t, mark a hole the same size as the light box.
For example, a four-inch round box will need a four-inch hole. Using a drywall or hole saw, cut out the hole and remove the drywall.

After cutting your light box hole, mark a hole for the light switch box. If a template is available, use that to mark the cutout area.
If not, take the box and turn it backward. Mark around its edges to make your template on the drywall. Don’t draw around the outer trim as that part should stick out from the wall. Then, use the same saw as before to cut the hole.
Take off the faceplate from the outlet you’ll be drawing power from. Check that no power is flowing by using a voltage tester.
Assess whether the outlet box is a nail-in or old-work box. A nail-in box won’t have any screws that allow it to be removed. If you have a nail-in box, it’s best to contact a professional as they will need to remove drywall to take out the box.
An old-work box will have two screws that can be used to remove the box. For an old-work outlet box, use a screwdriver to turn the two screws counterclockwise until the box is loose. Once it’s loose, pull it from the wall while still leaving it attached to its wires.
Since you are installing your sconce near an electrical outlet, you should see a 14/2 wire inside the light box hole that you created earlier. Grab this wire out and fish it down to the switch box hole. Cut the wire so 8 to 10 inches extend from both holes.
Take the top end of the 14/2 wire and put it into one of the holes of the light box. Place the box into the light box hole you carved earlier, and use a screwdriver to screw the box into the wall.

Use a wire stripper to cut off the outer casing of the 14/2 wire to strip the wire ends. Take the metal mounting hardware that came with your sconce and screw it into the light box. Ensure that the three wires are threaded through to the hardware.
Take a look at the sconce wires. They should already be stripped and ready to attach. Attach the sconce wires to the 14/2 wires, making sure to connect the same color of wires.
The hot wires attach to the hot wires, the neutral to the neutral, and the ground to the ground. Use wire nuts to cap off each connection, then screw the sconce onto the mounting hardware.

From the switch box hole, run a 14/2 wire to the outlet.
If you have an old-work box, run the wire from the switch box hole to the open outlet hole.
If you have a nail-in outlet, starting from the back of the outlet box, slide the wire upward to the switch box hole using fish tape. Make sure 8 to 10 inches of wire extends from each hole.
Take the two 14/2 wires and insert them into the back of the switch box. Next, place the switch box in the hole and attach it to the wall with a screwdriver.
To wire the light switch:
Attach the line black wire to one end of the light switch and the load black wire to the other. The load black wire will be the one running toward the sconce.
Attach the white wire to the other white wire.
The two bare copper wires should be left, attach these two together. Then add a third copper wire that's five to six inches long and twist all three together. Cap these off with a wire nut.
Take the loose end of the third copper wide and attach it to the green screw of the light switch.
Use a screwdriver to screw the light switch onto the box and add the faceplate.
To complete your sconce wiring, use wire cutters to remove the cable sheathing and paper on the 14/2 wire exposed from the outlet. Strip the wire ends. Next, determine if the outlet ends a run of outlets or is in a group of outlets.
If the outlet ends the run of outlets:
On the unused side, attach the black wire to the gold terminal and the white wire to the silver terminal.
Remove the bare copper wire from the outlet.
If the outlet is within a group of outlets:
As both sides of the outlet are attached to wires, do not try to add extra wires under the terminals.
Remove the line wires from the outlet and attach a third, pigtailed wire.
Connect the black wire to the black wire of the 14/2 cable and add another black wire.
Twist the three wires together and use a wire nut to cap them off.
Take the end of the third black wire you added and attach it to the gold terminal on the outlet.
Repeat these steps for the white and bare copper wires.
With the wiring complete, push all the wires back into the box. Screw the outlet back on, remembering to add the faceplate.

Turn the power for the room back on and test the sconce by turning the light switch on and off. If you’re experiencing any issues after the installation, it’s best to contact a professional electrician to help out.
If you’re on a budget, wiring a sconce yourself can save you some cash. However, this project is quite complex and involves advanced electrical skills and techniques. It should only be tackled by those with electrical knowledge and expertise.
For a project like this, it’s recommended to contact a local light fixture technician near you. They’ll be able to wire your wall sconce, get it set up, and make sure everything is working properly. The hourly cost for a pro will range from $50 to $130, depending on your area and the project.
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