How to Build a Brick Patio Like a Pro

Start by grabbing stakes and string, then mark the patio layout directly on the ground. Walk the perimeter, adjust as needed, and make sure the shape fits the way you’ll use the space. 

Next, call 811 a few days before building your brick patio. This connects you with local utility companies who’ll come out and mark any underground lines—gas, water, electric—so you know exactly where (and where not) to dig. If you skip this step, you could hit something important and mess up essential services, like whether you’re able to take a shower or turn on your oven. A quick call can prevent costly delays and major problems, so play it safe and always “call before you dig.”

Now, plan for drainage. Use a measuring tape and level to create a slight slope—roughly one inch for every eight to 10 feet—away from your home. For example, if your patio runs 16 feet from the house, aim for a drop of around two inches from one end to the other. Mark these levels now so you can reference them later.

Finally, sketch your paver patio design on paper. It doesn’t need to be fancy, just clear. Include the dimensions, outline your brick pattern (running bond, herringbone, basketweave, etc.), and note any curves or borders. Your sketch will help you figure out how many bricks, gravel, and sand you’ll need.

Using a square-edged shovel, start digging inside the area you marked off—removing grass, roots, and anything else that doesn’t belong under a brick patio. You’re aiming for a depth between seven and 10 inches to make room for your layers: four to six inches of gravel, one inch of sand, and your two to three-inch bricks. Use your measuring tape to keep things even, and toss the soil into a wheelbarrow so it’s easy to move. As you dig, follow the slight slope you planned for drainage. Lay down a level on a straight board to double-check you’re on the right track.

Shovel crushed gravel into the excavated area, then spread it evenly with a rake to about four to six inches deep. Again, use your measuring tape, level, and straight board to keep an eye on the slope for drainage. Once the layer’s in place, power up a plate compactor—you can rent one from a hardware store—and compact the gravel in overlapping passes until it feels solid. For smaller areas, you can use a hand tamper, but it will take a lot more time and effort. Spraying the gravel with a light mist can help pack everything down.

Roll out landscape fabric directly over the compacted gravel, and trim it to fit with a utility knife. Smooth it out to eliminate any wrinkles while overlapping the edges. This layer blocks weeds and will keep your sand base stable, so your patio has a cleaner finish and needs less maintenance in the future.

Unload coarse sand (paver sand or sharp sand) into the patio area, and spread it with a shovel to create an even layer about one inch thick. Skip the fine sand—it shifts too easily and won’t hold your bricks steady. Set down your guides (two straight pipes or 2x4 boards) at one end of your sanded area, spacing them about three to four feet apart. Use a level to make sure they sit evenly.

Drag a screed board—any long, straight piece of wood or metal used to smooth and level materials—across the top, using a smooth, back-and-forth motion to flatten the sand between the guides. Once the section is level, gently lift one guide and use a hand trowel or the edge of your board to fill in that gap with the sand. Move your guides and repeat the process in sections until the full patio is covered. Avoid stepping on your screeded areas. Work backward across the space to preserve the smooth, even surface you just created.

Start from a fixed edge—like your house or a solid border—and press each brick into the sand with a gentle twist to lock it in place. Run a string line tight across each row, checking it regularly to keep your layout straight.

Drop in paver spacers as you go to keep uniform gaps (typically 1/8" - 1/4") for jointing sand later. If you need to make cuts when you reach the edges, measure and mark your brick pavers with a pencil. Use a brick splitter or wet saw to cut it to your measurements—just don’t forget your safety glasses.

Install edge restraints around the perimeter of your patio. This prevents your bricks and base layers from shifting over time. Choose a material that fits your layout and skill level—plastic edging bends easily around curves while metal gives a cleaner finish. For plastic edging, anchor it with long spikes every 12 to 18 inches using a hammer or mallet. Metal edging may need stakes, screws, and a drill for assembly and shaping, especially if you’re working curves into your layout. 

Whether you’re laying straight edges or smooth curves, use your measuring tape and level to keep the restraint height even with or slightly below the brick surface to prevent tripping hazards. Cut plastic edging with a utility knife or heavy-duty scissors, and wear gloves and safety glasses throughout.

For added stability and a finished look, use your shovel to backfill the edges with soil or mulch.

Pour polymeric sand across the brick surface, and use a stiff-bristled broom to sweep it diagonally into the joints. This isn’t just filler—polymeric sand has special binding agents that lock the bricks in place once activated with water. It hardens as it dries, helping prevent weeds, ant infestations, and erosion from rain or regular foot traffic. Sweep thoroughly to remove all excess from the surface—leftover dust can stain. Mist the area gently with a garden hose to set the sand.