How to Build a Brick Patio Like a Pro

Brick by brick, your patio is paving the way for good times

Backyard brick patio with pool, deck, and table
Photo: dolah / E+ / Getty Images
Backyard brick patio with pool, deck, and table
Photo: dolah / E+ / Getty Images

This project can be costly in more ways than one. Hire a pro to get the job done right the first time, avoid potential injury, and eliminate budget-breaking DIY mistakes.

SKILL LEVEL
Intermediate
COMPLETION TIME
5 days
COST
$1,900–$4,200
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What you'll need:
TOOLS
  • Stakes
  • Measuring tape
  • Level
  • Square-edged shovel
  • Wheelbarrow (optional)
SUPPLIES
  • String
  • Crushed gravel
  • Landscape fabric
  • Coarse sand
  • Brick pavers

You can turn your backyard into the most versatile room on your property with a brick patio. Set up lounge chairs, roll out the grill, and add a dining set—just like that, you have a living room, kitchen, and dining area all in one. Brick patios bring a clean, timeless look, but getting it right means taking the build seriously from the start. While it’s not the most complicated DIY project, it does take patience, precision, and planning to build one that looks great and lasts for years.

  1. Plan and Design Your Patio

    Start by grabbing stakes and string, then mark the patio layout directly on the ground. Walk the perimeter, adjust as needed, and make sure the shape fits the way you’ll use the space. 

    Next, call 811 a few days before building your brick patio. This connects you with local utility companies who’ll come out and mark any underground lines—gas, water, electric—so you know exactly where (and where not) to dig. If you skip this step, you could hit something important and mess up essential services, like whether you’re able to take a shower or turn on your oven. A quick call can prevent costly delays and major problems, so play it safe and always “call before you dig.”

    Now, plan for drainage. Use a measuring tape and level to create a slight slope—roughly one inch for every eight to 10 feet—away from your home. For example, if your patio runs 16 feet from the house, aim for a drop of around two inches from one end to the other. Mark these levels now so you can reference them later.

    Finally, sketch your paver patio design on paper. It doesn’t need to be fancy, just clear. Include the dimensions, outline your brick pattern (running bond, herringbone, basketweave, etc.), and note any curves or borders. Your sketch will help you figure out how many bricks, gravel, and sand you’ll need.

  2. Excavate the Area

    Demolished residential patio
    Photo: Philippe Gerber / Moment / Getty Images

    Using a square-edged shovel, start digging inside the area you marked off—removing grass, roots, and anything else that doesn’t belong under a brick patio. You’re aiming for a depth between seven and 10 inches to make room for your layers: four to six inches of gravel, one inch of sand, and your two to three-inch bricks. Use your measuring tape to keep things even, and toss the soil into a wheelbarrow so it’s easy to move. As you dig, follow the slight slope you planned for drainage. Lay down a level on a straight board to double-check you’re on the right track.

  3. Lay Down Your Gravel Base

    Shovel crushed gravel into the excavated area, then spread it evenly with a rake to about four to six inches deep. Again, use your measuring tape, level, and straight board to keep an eye on the slope for drainage. Once the layer’s in place, power up a plate compactor—you can rent one from a hardware store—and compact the gravel in overlapping passes until it feels solid. For smaller areas, you can use a hand tamper, but it will take a lot more time and effort. Spraying the gravel with a light mist can help pack everything down.

  4. Add Landscape Fabric

    Roll out landscape fabric directly over the compacted gravel, and trim it to fit with a utility knife. Smooth it out to eliminate any wrinkles while overlapping the edges. This layer blocks weeds and will keep your sand base stable, so your patio has a cleaner finish and needs less maintenance in the future.

  5. Set and Screed the Sand Bedding

    Worker leveling sand
    Photo: photovs / iStock / Getty Images Plus / Getty Images

    Unload coarse sand (paver sand or sharp sand) into the patio area, and spread it with a shovel to create an even layer about one inch thick. Skip the fine sand—it shifts too easily and won’t hold your bricks steady. Set down your guides (two straight pipes or 2x4 boards) at one end of your sanded area, spacing them about three to four feet apart. Use a level to make sure they sit evenly.

    Drag a screed board—any long, straight piece of wood or metal used to smooth and level materials—across the top, using a smooth, back-and-forth motion to flatten the sand between the guides. Once the section is level, gently lift one guide and use a hand trowel or the edge of your board to fill in that gap with the sand. Move your guides and repeat the process in sections until the full patio is covered. Avoid stepping on your screeded areas. Work backward across the space to preserve the smooth, even surface you just created.

  6. Lay the Brick

    Start from a fixed edge—like your house or a solid border—and press each brick into the sand with a gentle twist to lock it in place. Run a string line tight across each row, checking it regularly to keep your layout straight.

    Drop in paver spacers as you go to keep uniform gaps (typically 1/8" - 1/4") for jointing sand later. If you need to make cuts when you reach the edges, measure and mark your brick pavers with a pencil. Use a brick splitter or wet saw to cut it to your measurements—just don’t forget your safety glasses.

  7. Install Edge Restraints

    Worker laying concrete paving slabs
    Photo: redtea / iStock / Getty Images Plus / Getty Images

    Install edge restraints around the perimeter of your patio. This prevents your bricks and base layers from shifting over time. Choose a material that fits your layout and skill level—plastic edging bends easily around curves while metal gives a cleaner finish. For plastic edging, anchor it with long spikes every 12 to 18 inches using a hammer or mallet. Metal edging may need stakes, screws, and a drill for assembly and shaping, especially if you’re working curves into your layout. 

    Whether you’re laying straight edges or smooth curves, use your measuring tape and level to keep the restraint height even with or slightly below the brick surface to prevent tripping hazards. Cut plastic edging with a utility knife or heavy-duty scissors, and wear gloves and safety glasses throughout.

    For added stability and a finished look, use your shovel to backfill the edges with soil or mulch.

  8. Fill the Joints

    Pour polymeric sand across the brick surface, and use a stiff-bristled broom to sweep it diagonally into the joints. This isn’t just filler—polymeric sand has special binding agents that lock the bricks in place once activated with water. It hardens as it dries, helping prevent weeds, ant infestations, and erosion from rain or regular foot traffic. Sweep thoroughly to remove all excess from the surface—leftover dust can stain. Mist the area gently with a garden hose to set the sand.

Mistakes to Avoid

Even a well-planned patio can fall apart—literally—if you overlook key details. Take the time to get each step right, and you won’t have to worry about uneven surfaces, shifting bricks, and drainage issues. If you’re taking the DIY route, avoid these mistakes to save yourself time, money, and future repairs:

  • Don’t ignore local codes and permits: Contact your local building department early to check if permits are required for your patio.

  • Don’t guess the design: Measure your space and sketch a layout to estimate materials and anticipate any tricky designs.

  • Don’t ignore soft soil: Dig out soft or unstable ground before building your base. Don’t just hope it settles right.

  • Don’t rush to furnish: Let polymeric sand cure fully before setting furniture or planters on the surface.

  • Don’t skip maintenance: Sweep regularly and top off joint sand when needed to prevent weeds and shifting.

  • Don’t build in bad weather: Avoid building in harsh heat, freezing temperatures, or rain. Schedule your project during dry, moderate conditions.

If the thought of managing every detail of your patio feels overwhelming, you can always hire a professional brick paver to handle the project for you. This option not only saves you the time and effort of building your brick patio, but it also guarantees that your patio will be durable, level, and free from the common DIY mistakes that some homeowners are bound to make. 

DIY vs. Hiring a Pro

Building a patio yourself might seem like a money-saver, but consider the costs and effort involved. On average, a DIY brick patio can cost between $1,903 and $4,122 for materials alone (for a medium-sized patio around 168 sq. ft). Add to that the time, effort, and rental costs for specialized tools like a plate compactor and wet saw. For a 168 sq. ft. patio, expect to spend days—or multiple weekends—hauling materials and ensuring proper alignment, grading, and drainage.

Hiring a professional paver typically costs $50 to $80 per hour or $4 to 11 per square foot, and their crew could get the job done in about 19 to 23 hours. For the same 168 sq. ft. patio, you’re looking at $2,520–$4,200 (including materials and labor). Sure, the initial investment might be higher, but you’ll avoid the risk of costly mistakes and get a warranty for your peace of mind.

Frequently Asked Questions

No, you shouldn’t lay bricks directly on dirt. While it might seem like a shortcut, it leads to a patio that shifts, sinks, and becomes a maintenance headache. Dirt expands, contracts, and erodes—none of which mix well with long-term stability. To build something that lasts, excavate the topsoil, compact a layer of crushed gravel, and add a coarse sand-setting bed. This layered base gives your bricks proper support, allows drainage, and helps block weeds from creeping through. Cutting corners here just means you’ll spend more time—and money—repairing your brick patio later.

It is generally cheaper to build a concrete patio versus a brick patio. Basic concrete costs around $8 to $15 per square foot, while a brick patio typically ranges from $10 to $20 per square foot. The cost difference comes down to both materials and labor—pouring and finishing concrete is faster than placing each brick by hand. Brick pavers look great and last long, but they’ll cost more up front. If you’re looking to keep your budget in check without sacrificing function, concrete is usually the more cost-effective choice.

Generally, the running bond pattern is one of the easiest brick patterns—and most popular—because it’s repetitive, forgiving, and requires minimal cutting. Since each brick is offset by half its length in the next row, there’s less measuring, fewer layout calculations, and very little brick that goes to waste. The straight lines are easy to align with string, and unless you’re working around curves or tight corners, you can usually complete the project with (mostly) full bricks. It’s a great choice for first-timers who want a clean, classic look without overcomplicating the installation.

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