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Yes, you must thoroughly clean your deck before staining. If you don't, dirt, debris, grease, and mildew can get trapped between the wood and the new stain. This not only looks unsightly but also prevents the stain from penetrating the wood properly, reducing its ability to protect the deck from weather and UV rays. As a result, the stain won't last as long or look as good. Any existing mold or mildew left untreated can continue to grow beneath the new stain, potentially leading to wood rot and structural damage. Always wait at least 48 hours after cleaning for the wood to dry completely before applying stain.

Applying a sealer or topcoat after staining wood is highly recommended, though not always strictly required. A sealer protects the wood from moisture, UV rays, and weather-related issues, which is especially important for outdoor surfaces like decks and fences. It also enhances the stain's durability, prevents fading over time, and gives the wood a cleaner, more professional-looking finish. For some indoor applications, a sealer may not be necessary, depending on the type of stain used and the level of protection needed. It's always best to check the stain manufacturer's recommendations and consider the wood's intended use and exposure when deciding whether to apply a sealer.

Unless you’re using a 2-in-1 formula or painting over an existing coat of paint, it pays to apply a coat of primer ahead of your new paint. Decks see a lot of footfall and exposure to extreme and sudden temperature changes and moisture levels. The primer promotes better paint adhesion, moisture repellency, and a smoother finish, which means you’ll often need fewer coats of paint. 

Limewash and whitewash are two techniques used to give brick a light, matte finish, but they differ in composition, application, and permanence. The best choice depends on your aesthetic goals and the specific surface.

Composition

• Limewash: A natural and environmentally friendly option made from limestone, water, and sometimes pigments. It is breathable and soaks into porous surfaces like brick.

• Whitewash: Traditionally made from lime, water, chalk, and binders, but a similar look can be achieved with watered-down white paint. It is paint-based and sits on top of the surface.

Appearance and Finish

• Limewash: Provides a natural, textured appearance that allows the brick's character to show through. It offers a more traditional finish.

• Whitewash: Creates a softer, more opaque finish, often used for a rustic or shabby-chic style.

Application and Permanence

• Limewash: Is semi-permanent and can be removed, making it a good choice if you might want to change the look in the future. It requires more skill to apply and cannot be used on previously painted brick.

• Whitewash: Is a more permanent solution. It is more forgiving to apply and can be used on painted brick. However, because it sits on the surface, it can trap moisture.

Ultimately, if you want a breathable, natural, and reversible finish for unpainted brick, limewash is a great option. If you need a more permanent, opaque coating that can be applied over painted surfaces, whitewash is the better choice. Whitewashing may also be more economical, costing approximately $1.40 to $4.20 per square foot.