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While some areas may allow for a slope of up to 20%, this is often the maximum slope for driveways, with a few exceptions of up to 25%. Other regions may have a maximum of 12%, 15%, or 18%, so check with your local building department to ensure you’re laying a driveway that is up to code for your location.

You can pour concrete over asphalt if it’s in good condition, thick, stable, and well-compacted. Concrete is more durable than asphalt and can extend the lifetime of your driveway without having to pay frequent asphalt driveway repair costs or replace it completely. 

But this is best reserved as a temporary solution based on budget restraints, as asphalt requires more frequent repairs and assessments than concrete. Once that concrete top is poured, it’ll be harder to accurately understand what’s happening beneath that layer, which could lead to more issues.

The layer of polymeric sand under the pavers plus the polymeric sand that gets swept into the joints between your pavers holds them in place in a few ways. For one, the gritty texture of the sand helps lock the pavers together. Polymeric sand also contains bonding agents that get activated by water. Polymeric sand will take between 24 and 48 hours to fully cure, so do not walk on your paver walkway before this time.

There’s no single best asphalt grade—it all comes down to where and how it’s used. Highways and heavy-traffic roads need something tough, like polymer-modified asphalt (PMA) or Stone Matrix Asphalt (SMA). Local roads and parking lots rely on the Performance Graded (PG) system, chosen based on climate. A PG 64-28 mix, for example, handles a broad temperature range while simpler, more cost-effective mixes are typically enough for residential driveways. The best grade of asphalt depends on traffic, weather, and your budget, which is why a professional’s input is always a smart move before making a decision.