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When installing board and batten siding, make sure there is wall sheathing and a moisture-resistant barrier installed. Behind that sheathing should be plywood or OSB for you to nail the boards and battens into. If there isn’t plywood or OSB, you can install vertical furring strips at 1½- to 2-foot intervals to nail the boards and battens to.

A plastic vapor barrier should completely cover your basement to prevent water from penetrating through the walls. This typically goes before installing insulation to prevent moisture from building up and becoming trapped on the inside of your insulation, where it can collect and lead to mold damage. Installing insulation after the vapor barrier allows for any moisture to exit the walls for better ventilation.

Unfaced wall insulation is easier to cut and install, making it the better choice for a DIY project. It’s also more affordable. But if it’s unfaced, you’ll likely need to add a vapor barrier to reach your desired R-value and efficiency, as it doesn’t offer any moisture barrier.

Faced insulation uses paper or foil to create a built-in barrier and doesn’t require an extra step. It’s also more fire-resistant and safe. But it’s quite a bit more expensive and a little bit harder to work with as a DIYer.

Yes, cold walls are a common indicator of poor or inadequate insulation, especially if the walls feel significantly colder than the air in the room. This suggests that heat from your furnace is escaping rather than being retained. The issue could be that the walls have no insulation, or that the existing insulation is old or has been damaged by water, moisture, or pests. Your best course of action is to hire a professional to investigate. An insulation contractor can determine if you need to add or replace insulation and can often perform the work without creating large holes in your drywall. If you suspect the problem might also be related to your heating system's performance, an HVAC technician can take a closer look.