Get matched with top toilet pros in Vader, WA

Yes, and no. Your shower, toilet, and sink all connect to the same main drain, but the secondary drains going from each fixture to the main drain are usually separate. This isn’t always the case—especially in older homes—but since toilets contain black water and showers, tubs, and sinks have grey water, toilets are more regulated and come at a greater risk of contamination. It’s best to keep these drains separate using individual waste collection for this reason.

This rumbling noise after flushing may sound like a hammer or knocking inside the walls. When you flush, it opens a valve so additional water can come in. However, if the valve malfunctions, then this rush of water has nowhere to go, which makes all the excess water hit your pipes and create a loud hammering sound.

You generally cannot replace a 10-inch rough-in toilet with a 12-inch model without making significant plumbing updates. A 12-inch rough-in toilet will not fit a 10-inch rough-in space because the floor drain is in the wrong position. To accommodate the larger toilet, you would need to move the drainpipe, which could cost between $0.75 and $30 per linear foot, plus labor. In most cases, it is more cost-effective and simpler to purchase a new 10-inch rough-in toilet. However, it is possible to install a 10-inch rough-in toilet in a 12-inch space by using a longer connector.

The cost to install a new toilet typically runs from $225 to $530. This doesn’t include the price of the toilet itself, which can cost $90 to $1,500 depending on the model and features you choose. You can save money if you choose to install a toilet yourself. However, you might want to hire a pro for this project.

"Due to the many complexities of replacing a toilet flange, it is typically a job best left to the pros," says Jeff Botelho, Angi Expert Review Board member and plumber. "Many times it isn't as simple and straightforward as 'pop off the old one and pop on a new one' because the flange is either glued on (PVC/ABS), soldered on (brass/copper), or caulked in place with a lead & oakum joint (cast iron) and none of these things can be easily reversed without years of training and repetitive practice."