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It's safe to assume that all exterior walls are load-bearing, or at least have load-bearing characteristics. Some older homes feature porches or bump-outs that don't rest on the home's foundation. However, they still must carry the weight of the roof section they support. Walls containing floor-to-ceiling glass or other non-structural elements must use post and beam configurations to meet load-bearing criteria.

Squeaky floors don’t always mean structural damage. Usually, it’s caused by friction somewhere inside your floor—whether it’s a loose floorboard or a gap between the subfloor and joists. If there is structural damage, you’ll notice other signs like soft or sagging floors, cracks that go from the wall to the ceiling, and horizontal cracks on your foundation.

Trusses and rafters each have advantages and disadvantages, so one isn’t necessarily better than the other. For example, trusses are more affordable and often come in prefabricated kits, so they’re easier to build than rafters. However, rafters are available in a variety of designs, so it’s easier to find one that fits your style preferences. Plus, if you want to build an attic at some point down the line, it’s far easier to do that with rafters rather than trusses.

A freestanding brick wall that's only one brick thick can usually stand six to eight feet high. If you need a higher wall, it should be at least two bricks thick for adequate stability, and it might require a footing to support the added weight. Additionally, some areas have regulations and codes dictating how high a brick wall can be, so check with local code enforcers to ensure your proposed wall complies with any regulations.