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Fence Painting questions, answered by experts

Yes, you can limewash surfaces other than brick. Plaster, stone, stucco, and concrete can all also be limewashed. Any porous surface that will absorb the wash is a good candidate for limewash, although it won’t help much with waterproofing. If you choose to limewash over paint, you’ll need to prep before applying it to avoid a powdery, chalky finish. Shiny surfaces like metal or glass can’t absorb limewash, so it’s not suited for these.

Regular cleaning, rust-proof coatings, and checking fasteners help prolong the lifespan.

If you have the time and the budget, we strongly recommend staining your fence, especially if it's looking a bit tired or hasn't been treated recently. While you may not see the same return on investment (ROI) as you would with a project like a kitchen remodel, staining a fence is one of the best ways to add a facelift to your property—a new fence stain adds serious curb appeal to your home. 

The general consensus is that two coats of stain are required and since the cedar is siding, a third coat of sealant is always a good idea. This helps protect the wood and stain, so you won’t need to resand and restain for at least a decade. Each stain after the first will darken the wood, so be aware of that when choosing a colored stain.

Stains penetrate wood best when it's cool and dry, so you want to avoid moisture. If the wood is wet upon application, or if it rains before the stain dries, the water will soak into the wood and displace the staining solution. This leads to a flaky and blotchy look, which is the opposite of a sumptuous even coat. Once the stain has fully cured, after about 3 days, rain shouldn’t cause you any problems.

The Santaquin, UT homeowners’ guide to fence painting services

From average costs to expert advice, get all the answers you need to get your job done.