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Professional installers often include a deep layer of crushed gravel under permeable pavers to allow more runoff to soak through into the soil below. Many installations will include multiple layers of gravel, with coarser aggregate at the base and finer aggregate that sits on top of that bottom layer. Above the gravel, you’ll often find coarse sand that helps reduce paver shifting over time. Some permeable paver designs include a water collection system set into the gravel layer to route runoff to a safe area for disposal.

If you're designing a new patio in an area with poor drainage, permeable pavers made from porous materials may help prevent water issues. Most permeable pavers feature a gravel-only aggregate base instead of a concrete base to allow water to flow through instead of getting trapped. While beneficial in some cases, permeable pavers come with higher initial costs and greater load-bearing limitations compared to traditional pavers.

If you wish to break up a cracked or broken paver for removal, you can use a hammer or mallet and a chisel to fragment the paver. As you’re working, be careful not to disturb surrounding pavers; the key is to work slowly and steadily and remove the broken pieces gently. You should also wear a mask and goggles to ensure that no dust gets into your eyes, nose, or mouth as you work.

The dimensions of a driveway apron vary based on local building codes, the width of your driveway, and the distance between the driveway and the road. On average, aprons range from 12 to 24 feet wide and 8 to 18 feet long. Typically, the end of the apron connected to the driveway matches its width—such as 10 to 12 feet for a single-car driveway—while the end at the street flares out to allow cars to turn in and out more easily. In some areas, you may not be responsible for the portion of the apron that extends beyond the sidewalk, but this depends on local laws.