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In many areas, a floating deck that isn’t connected to your home and stays under 200 square feet and below 30 inches in height may not need a permit. These freestanding structures are often considered low-risk, which can simplify the building process. However, building codes vary greatly based on location. Before investing in any home improvement project, check with your local permitting office for deck-building guidelines.

When installing deck boards, screws are generally a better option than nails. Screws offer superior holding strength over time, keeping the boards securely in place. In contrast, nails are more likely to pop out, which can create a tripping hazard. While you can use either, we recommend using 3-inch galvanized deck screws. To minimize the risk of cracking the wood, it's a good practice to drill small pilot holes before driving the screws into the deck joists.

Liquid rubber is great for waterproofing, but it can damage your deck if it’s not applied correctly. First, it can trap moisture in the wood if the deck isn’t completely dry before application.  Second, applying it too thickly can create a heavy, rubbery surface layer that peels and cracks under fluctuating temperatures. For the best results, ensure the wood is completely dry before application, and apply the liquid rubber in thin, even coats. A quick inspection every now and then will help you catch any issues early, keeping your deck protected and looking its best.

While you can use various materials like sand or even just soil, gravel is widely considered the best option to put under a deck. It provides excellent drainage and is resistant to water, fire, and pests. Gravel also helps anchor the soil to prevent erosion during heavy rain and acts as a built-in weed blocker, reducing regular upkeep. Furthermore, it is simple to spread, available in various textures and tones, and adds a polished look that complements any deck design.