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Limewash and whitewash do not harm surfaces if you apply them correctly. Use on non-suitable surfaces can cause issues. For instance, applying limewash or whitewash to surfaces with existing sealants or incompatible materials may lead to poor adhesion or flaking. Also, harsh cleaning agents on limewashed or whitewashed surfaces can damage the finish. Proper preparation, application, and maintenance ensure that limewash and whitewash do not harm surfaces.

Beyond liquid rubber, homeowners can use sealants, stains, membranes, or tapes as waterproofing options. Oil-based or water-based sealants soak into the wood, creating a moisture-resistant barrier. Waterproofing stains—available in transparent, semi-transparent, and solid colors—add both protection and style to your deck. For heavy-duty waterproofing, deck membranes and waterproof tapes can be applied under the deck boards to direct water away from the structure below. Whatever method you choose, clean and prep the deck first to ensure the best, longest-lasting results.

Satin paint is generally considered a better choice for woodwork—including trim, baseboards, cabinets, and doors—than flatter finishes like eggshell or matte. Its soft sheen enhances architectural details and stands up well to frequent cleaning and daily wear. Compared to eggshell and matte finishes, satin is more durable for high-touch areas because it is less porous and doesn't absorb dirt as easily. Matte finishes, in particular, are prone to scuffs and are harder to clean, making them less practical for surfaces like doors and cabinets.

In most cases, sanding an old deck before staining it is necessary to achieve a decent finish. If your old deck has a relatively new stain finish on it and you're only doing touch-ups, you can generally skip the sanding part. However, if your goal is to make the deck look and function better, sanding first is a must.