Should I remove old attic insulation before adding new?

• <div><p>Ideally, you can add new insulation to your existing insulation. However, some circumstances require you to remove old insulation before adding any new insulation: </p><ul><li><p>If the insulation is over 15 years old</p></li><li><p>If the insulation is wet or moldy</p></li><li><p>If it is <a href="https://www.angi.com/articles/what-is-vermiculite-insulation.htm">vermiculite insulation</a></p></li><li><p>If you see signs of pest infestation</p></li></ul><p>Removing old insulation is best left to a pro who can safely dispose of potential moldy or asbestos-ridden insulation.</p></div>

What is the best type of attic insulation?

• <div><p>The best type of attic insulation depends on where you live, your budget, and what stage of construction the attic is in. For example, if you're building a house, then structural insulated panels are a worthy investment since they're easy to install during construction and they're the most energy-efficient type of insulation. </p><p>Additionally, if you live in a very warm climate, then you can potentially save quite a bit of money by opting for reflective insulation, which is more affordable than comprehensive insulation but doesn't work well for cool climates. Blown-in, loose-fill, and spray foam insulation are all great options for attics in moderate climates.</p></div>

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Q: Is fiberglass insulation safe for my home?

• <div><p>While fiberglass is dangerous to work with, it&rsquo;s a perfectly safe material once it&rsquo;s installed. If you&rsquo;re tackling the installation yourself, make sure you take the proper safety precautions and wear the right gear to avoid skin and eye irritation and lung complications. Working with a professional insulation company can mitigate these risks.</p></div>

Q: What maintenance is suggested for attic insulation?

• <div><p>Periodic checks for moisture or pest issues ensure consistent performance.</p></div>

Q: What do you put behind board and batten siding?

• <div><p>When installing board and batten siding, make sure there is wall sheathing <i>and</i> a moisture-resistant barrier installed. Behind that sheathing should be plywood or OSB for you to nail the boards and battens into. If there isn&rsquo;t plywood or OSB, you can install vertical furring strips at 1&frac12;- to 2-foot intervals to nail the boards and battens to.</p></div>

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Doorbell Installation questions, answered by experts

Ideally, you can add new insulation to your existing insulation. However, some circumstances require you to remove old insulation before adding any new insulation:

If the insulation is over 15 years old
If the insulation is wet or moldy
If it is vermiculite insulation
If you see signs of pest infestation

Removing old insulation is best left to a pro who can safely dispose of potential moldy or asbestos-ridden insulation.

While fiberglass is dangerous to work with, it’s a perfectly safe material once it’s installed. If you’re tackling the installation yourself, make sure you take the proper safety precautions and wear the right gear to avoid skin and eye irritation and lung complications. Working with a professional insulation company can mitigate these risks.

The best type of attic insulation depends on where you live, your budget, and what stage of construction the attic is in. For example, if you're building a house, then structural insulated panels are a worthy investment since they're easy to install during construction and they're the most energy-efficient type of insulation.

Additionally, if you live in a very warm climate, then you can potentially save quite a bit of money by opting for reflective insulation, which is more affordable than comprehensive insulation but doesn't work well for cool climates. Blown-in, loose-fill, and spray foam insulation are all great options for attics in moderate climates.

Periodic checks for moisture or pest issues ensure consistent performance.

When installing board and batten siding, make sure there is wall sheathing and a moisture-resistant barrier installed. Behind that sheathing should be plywood or OSB for you to nail the boards and battens into. If there isn’t plywood or OSB, you can install vertical furring strips at 1½- to 2-foot intervals to nail the boards and battens to.

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