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Once you have your garbage disposal disconnected, you can remove the mounting bracket by unscrewing the bolts that are holding the bracket. You can back them out just enough to pop off the snap ring, which prevents the bottom portion of the bracket from disconnecting from the top when you unscrew the bolts. Use a regular screwdriver to pop off the snap ring, and the rest of the components should fall off by themselves.

The main issue with garbage disposals is clogging. This can mean a clogging of the pipes that expel the food along with water, or a clogging of the mechanical parts themselves. The problem lies in the solution because you can’t easily see clogs if they’re inside the system, and reaching in to dislodge stuck items is a risky proposal. Call a pro and ask what they would do, but if you can’t see the clog easily, and running the unit won’t free it, you need to let a professional handle the fix. 

If your garbage disposal powers up and you can hear it hum, but the arms inside aren’t moving, the problem might be a stubborn clog, a build-up of grease, or a jam of the impeller plate. To troubleshoot these, ensure your unit is off and disconnected from its power source before checking inside the drain or attempting to manually rotate the impeller arms or plate from the underside of the unit. A hex wrench can help.

If the cost of repairing a leaking garbage disposal is close to the cost of replacing the disposal, then fixing the unit might not make sense. When deciding if you should repair or replace your garbage disposal, consider the age of your garbage disposal, the cost of the repair, and whether your garbage disposal has had other problems recently to help you decide if the cost of repairing the leak is better than the cost of replacing the disposal.