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High humidity, bad insulation, warmth from sunlight, and poor circulation are all reasons your home’s hotter inside than out. While this is what you want in the colder months, summer can become unbearable if this is a constant. Try to find the cause, but you need to remember that issues like this require a permanent fix (unless you want to bear down during the summer months).

Spray foam insulation doesn’t do well around heat sources. Therefore, You can use spray foam insulation to seal around HVAC boots that penetrate through the drywalls or around where wrapped ducts connect to the boots, but we don’t recommend using spray foam insulation to encapsulate your air ducts. Spray foam insulation on air ducts is also less effective compared to duct wraps.

Insulation can be made of cellulose, fiberglass, polyurethane, polystyrene, or mineral wool. Radiant barriers are often made of aluminum or other similarly reflective materials, but they will need to be paired with something else because they don’t provide heating benefits. Cellulose is among the most eco-friendly options and may be recycled when it’s past its shelf-life, whereas polyurethane and polystyrene both emit harmful compounds and will need to be handled with care during installation.

The R-value is a rating that measures an insulation's thermal resistance—in other words, how well it insulates. A higher R-value provides more protection for your pipes, and all pipe insulation materials should have an R-value listed on the product description or label. Each insulation type has its own R-value, which typically falls between one and five for most pipe insulation. When making a selection, Energy.gov recommends choosing a pipe wrap that is at least one inch thick, and the International Code Council (ICC) suggests choosing a material with an R-value of at least 3.