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Deck Repair questions, answered by experts

Floating decks are a cost-effective and versatile option, but they come with some compromises. Since they sit on smaller footings instead of being deeply anchored, they’re more likely to shift over time, especially in areas with heavy rainfall or freeze-thaw conditions. Their low-to-the-ground design makes them more susceptible to moisture buildup and potential water damage.

In many areas, a floating deck that isn’t connected to your home and stays under 200 square feet and below 30 inches in height may not need a permit. These freestanding structures are often considered low-risk, which can simplify the building process. However, building codes vary greatly based on location. Before investing in any home improvement project, check with your local permitting office for deck-building guidelines.

When installing deck boards, screws are generally a better option than nails. Screws offer superior holding strength over time, keeping the boards securely in place. In contrast, nails are more likely to pop out, which can create a tripping hazard. While you can use either, we recommend using 3-inch galvanized deck screws. To minimize the risk of cracking the wood, it's a good practice to drill small pilot holes before driving the screws into the deck joists.

You can use a few different tactics to prevent your deck gate from sagging. Aside from using strong, rot-resistant woods, introducing a diagonal element—such as a tension rod or solid piece of wood to act as a brace—across the gate will offer better support. You can also use rigid joists to prevent the gate from sagging.

Homeowners should build their floating decks at least 18 inches off the ground. Having it at this height will allow for better airflow underneath and help prevent moisture-related problems like warping or rot. That being said, local guidelines for deck heights may vary depending on where you live.

The Kimball, SD homeowners’ guide to deck repair services

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