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Yes, but used or reclaimed bricks can be more brittle, cracked, or uneven than new bricks, so they’re harder to cut cleanly by hand. For that reason, you should take extra care when scoring and striking, and expect a higher chance of breakage. If a brick feels especially fragile, score deeper before attempting to split it.

You should generally drill into the mortar joints when installing shutters on brick. Mortar is softer, which makes drilling easier and puts less strain on your tools. It also lowers the risk of cracking a brick—something that’s a lot harder to fix. Mortar holds fasteners well enough for standard shutters, and if you ever need to patch the holes later, it’s a much simpler job than dealing with damaged brick. Just keep in mind that if your mortar joints are too thin or the hardware calls for brick anchoring, you'll need to check the manufacturer’s recommendations and adjust accordingly.

Spalling brick is not uncommon, but it does indicate a serious issue. It can be caused by water damage, an intense freeze-thaw cycle, or something else. Painted bricks can be susceptible to spalling, as the paint doesn’t allow the porous material of the brick to breathe, which can trap moisture. Spalling should always be addressed immediately before more serious structural damage occurs.

While painting can certainly change the look of a chimney, you should think twice about giving your brick chimney the old landlord special.

Painting brick is porous, meaning it’s full of tiny holes that can soak up moisture. Those holes also allow it to dry, though. So, when you paint it, you trap any moisture inside, providing an opportunity for mold, mildew, and water damage.

Paint also shows wear faster than naked brick. This means that once you paint a brick surface, you’ll have to keep painting it to maintain a clean look. A paint job is also harder to undo on brick because of its porous nature. Once you paint it, it’s hard to go back without some serious power washing—another added cost.