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Yes, you can do German schmear on stone. You can account for the more textured and rough surface of stone by using a large paintbrush instead of a putty knife. A brush allows you to drag mortar across the stone to get it into all the cracks and crevices. However, a brush will cover more of the surface, so you may need a wet sponge to scrub excess mortar and expose more of your stone.

No, you shouldn’t lay bricks directly on dirt. While it might seem like a shortcut, it leads to a patio that shifts, sinks, and becomes a maintenance headache. Dirt expands, contracts, and erodes—none of which mix well with long-term stability. To build something that lasts, excavate the topsoil, compact a layer of crushed gravel, and add a coarse sand-setting bed. This layered base gives your bricks proper support, allows drainage, and helps block weeds from creeping through. Cutting corners here just means you’ll spend more time—and money—repairing your brick patio later.

Chimney mortar typically lasts 20 to 30 years, depending on its quality, local weather conditions, and maintenance. Over time, exposure to moisture, freezing, and thawing cycles can cause mortar to deteriorate, leading to cracks and gaps. Regular inspections and timely repairs, such as repointing or tuckpointing, can extend the lifespan of chimney mortar by ensuring the structure's integrity.

Yes, it is normal to see some minor hairline cracks in brick or mortar over time, often due to natural foundation settling. However, not all cracks are harmless. You should be concerned and contact a masonry professional for an inspection if you notice cracks that are getting wider or longer, or if new ones keep appearing. Other serious warning signs that can indicate significant structural or foundation damage include large vertical cracks (especially those that widen as they go up), stair-step cracks, L-shaped cracks, and deep horizontal cracks. Factors like temperature changes, moisture, and structural loading can also cause cracks to form or worsen.