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While your lawn will reap the benefits of core aeration faster than liquid aeration, the liquid solution will last longer and have more cumulative effects. If your lawn is in really bad shape, try both. By creating holes in the soil with the core aerator, you’ll make it easier for your lawn to absorb the liquid aerator solution. You might have to apply the liquid aerator several times during the growing season, but again, the positive results will be more cumulative than with core aeration on its own.

Water your yard a little more deeply after a drought for about two weeks (while still avoiding overwatering). Continue to water in the early morning hours before 10 a.m. You'll also want to invest in some high-quality fertilizer to get more nutrients to your roots and help them grow back stronger and quicker. Look up your grass and soil type, or do a soil test, to see what type of fertilizer you need.

No, it's not a good idea to put grass seed directly on top of dead grass. For successful germination and growth, grass seed needs good soil contact. To prepare the area, start by removing the dead grass using a shovel or a sod cutter. Then, loosen the soil, add soil amendments if necessary, and spread the grass seed evenly. This allows the seed to come into direct contact with the soil, promoting better germination and establishing a healthier lawn.

Yes, you can DIY either core or liquid aeration for your lawn. You can use a manual core aerator or rent an automatic one. Just be sure to mark off yard obstacles like sprinkler heads before you start. Liquid aeration is easier—just hook up a garden pump sprayer, although some are able to be attached to a hose. While liquid aeration is not as laborious as core aeration, you will need to focus on an even distribution of the solution across your entire lawn for it to be effective. Of course, if you are unsure about doing both, call a pro.