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Air sealing isn't necessary for attic insulation, but it's incredibly helpful since it can help you identify and patch any existing air leaks. Failing to find these leaks before adding insulation can render your insulation less effective, leading to higher energy bills and potentially costly repairs down the line.

Insulating windows with plastic works, but it can be time-consuming, and the end results can—and often do—end up lacking in aesthetics. Window film and caulking your windows to make sure there are no drafts are two options that increase the energy efficiency of your home in a low-cost way. Plastic can be a good strategy while you consider alternatives.

If you need to insulate behind finished walls, the best option will likely be to have an insulation professional install blown-in insulation. The installation requires small holes cut in your wall, after which the installer can blow loose-fill insulation into the void. After the installation, you’ll have minor drywall patching, which shouldn’t cost more than $100. Compared to ripping down the existing drywall, using a different type of insulation, and replacing and finishing the drywall, this should save you hundreds or even thousands, depending on the size of the room you’re insulating.

When installing board and batten siding, make sure there is wall sheathing and a moisture-resistant barrier installed. Behind that sheathing should be plywood or OSB for you to nail the boards and battens into. If there isn’t plywood or OSB, you can install vertical furring strips at 1½- to 2-foot intervals to nail the boards and battens to.