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No. Topping a tree refers to severely cutting down all its major branches and tree in a straight line. It was once recommended for streetside deciduous trees but has fallen out of practice. Topping leads to many problems, removing so much of the tree that many trees struggle to survive and become much more vulnerable to insects and diseases. Also, it doesn’t really help tree growth as once assumed and often leads to an ugly appearance of many sprouting stems in competition to become new main branches.

A standard tree removal doesn’t include stump grinding. If you want your contractor to remove your tree and grind the stump, you must pay an extra charge. That said, you’ll likely save on the cost of stand-alone service—especially if it’s a small tree and they can finish both jobs in a single trip.

Since overwatering can harm mature trees just as much as a lack of water, it’s important to know the signs of an overwatered tree. If your tree’s leaves are yellowing, wilting, or dropping leaves, it’s likely that you’re overwatering. Other common signs include rotting, fungi, soggy soil, soft or peeling bark, falling leaves, and brittle roots. 

If you realize that you’ve been overwatering your mature tree, stop watering and give the soil time to dry out. Then moving forward, increase time between watering sessions. 

The best time to transplant a tree is when it is dormant. For many trees, this means either in the fall after the leaves have dropped (around October or November) or in early spring before new growth begins (around March). The ideal timing can depend on the type of tree. Deciduous trees do well when moved in early spring or fall, while evergreens are best transplanted in early spring or late summer. For example, pine trees are best moved in early fall, but maples prefer late fall. Avoid transplanting in winter, as the frozen or hard, cold soil poses a significant risk to the roots and prevents the tree from acclimating properly.