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You should avoid cutting off the top of mature cherry trees. This process is called tree topping, and it’s not recommended for cherry trees—or any trees, for that matter. Tree topping removes between one-third to half of the length of the tree trunk, resulting in structurally unsound, fruitless suckers. The only exception is for saplings. Young pie, sour, and tart cherry trees that are over 30 inches tall in the fall or winter before the tree blooms can benefit from heading cuts.

The recovery time for pruning depends on how much you prune, the species of tree, and how well you care for it afterward. All trees grow new wood and often sprout additional branches after pruning. Ideally, trees should recover from normal pruning after one or two years. Heavy pruning or slow-growing trees may take several years to fully recover.

For safety reasons, leaning trees are best removed by a professional, as they may often tear away from the hinge, causing you to lose control over where the tree falls. If you choose to cut down a tree leaning slightly, avoid cutting off root protrusions before you start. Make your hinge a little longer than usual by cutting it deeper (up to 30% of the diameter) and applying a wedge into the felling cut on the side the tree is leaning. Stand away from the direction the tree leans while making your felling cut.

Yes, cutting a tree's roots can cause it to fall, particularly if major support roots are severed. In extreme cases, trimming roots can affect the tree's structure and stability. Many crucial roots are located just below the soil's surface. If you make severe cuts to roots more than 2 inches in diameter, you risk impacting the tree's water flow and its ability to withstand severe winds or storms. Even cutting roots less than half an inch in diameter under or outside the tree's canopy can cut off its water supply, causing it to decline, die, and eventually topple.