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There are several telltale signs to let you know that your ceiling fan needs servicing or replacement. For instance, if it’s wobbling, rotating too slowly, or if your ceiling fan is making noise such as squeaks, buzzes, and thumps, it’s time to have it looked at by a professional. Not only may it indicate a potential problem with the fan itself, but it could also signal a red flag that it’s improperly assembled or there’s an issue with the wiring.

If your home already has wires for a ceiling fan (and optional light kit), then it’s quite safe to wire and install it yourself. Always be very careful to shut off the power before you begin, and confirm that the power is safely off with a non-contact voltage tester before touching anything. It’s also highly recommended to use eye protection, rubberized gloves, and tools with rubber handles to keep yourself safe from electric shock.

To determine if your ceiling box can support a fan, you must check if it is specifically fan-rated. Manufacturers are required to indicate this on the box itself. You may need to remove the existing light fixture to look inside the ceiling box for an inscription stating it is rated for fan use. If you do not see this confirmation, the box is likely not strong enough and must be replaced with a fan-rated junction box. For a proper and safe installation, you should also use a fan brace to secure the new box between the ceiling joists, which provides the necessary support for the fan's weight and motion.

Fan power is measured by CFM, or cubic feet per minute. For every 1,000 feet of square footage in your attic, you need a minimum of 700 CFM. Steeper roofs may need larger fans or about 840 CFM.  You can figure the size of attic fan you need by multiplying the square footage of your attic floor by 0.7. (multiply by 1.2 for a steep roof and 1.15 for a dark roof). That number is the CFM required for your fan to run efficiently.