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After removing existing moss, consider using paver blocking sand to fill the joints. This specialty material hardens once placed and serves as an effective barrier against moss and weeds. From there on, regularly clean your pavers and try to keep them dry. You can also seal your paver as a semi-permanent solution — just make sure you reseal every 3 to 5 years.

Paving is a part of hardscaping, so all paving is hardscaping, but not all hardscaping is paving. Paving involves laying down concrete or asphalt, while hardscaping can also include the use of paving stones, bricks, gravel, wood, and more. Hardscape features that involve paving are considered permanent and will increase your property taxes, while some other hardscaping features—like those involving bricks, gravel, and paving stones—will not affect property taxes. Paving also typically requires a permit, while hardscaping features considered temporary will not.

Asphalt and tarmac are not the same thing. Traditional tarmac, short for tarmacadam, uses tar as a binder to hold crushed stone together. Asphalt uses bitumen—a byproduct of crude oil—to bind aggregate. Though tarmac was once a go-to for roads, asphalt has become the modern standard. And these days, most surfaces referred to as “tarmac” are actually asphalt. So, while the names may overlap, the key distinction lies in the binder—tar for tarmac and bitumen for asphalt.

The stones do not work well on uneven ground. If the stones are not buried into the ground and made level upon installation, they almost certainly will shift or crack on uneven ground. Additionally, rainwater or water from sprinklers can run under the edge of an uneven paver, causing erosion. In a freeze and thaw cycle, trapped water under the paver can cause the problem to worsen by shifting the stepping stones around. Use a bubble level to make sure the ground under each paver is as even as possible, even if the nearby ground is uneven.