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There is no way to cut drywall without making dust, but you can reduce the amount of dust and especially the dangerous airborne particles by using manual cutting tools. Using a utility knife to score and snap your drywall will minimize dust production, and a jab saw for cutting cutouts for boxes and fixtures will generate almost no airborne dust. Even if you use these methods, you should still wear a respirator and safety goggles to avoid damage to your lungs and eyes.

In most cases, no, you won’t need a permit to replace drywall. If you’re changing the floorplan of your home by adding or removing walls during the drywall project, then you might need a permit, but replacement or repairs usually doesn’t require a permit. Your drywall professional should be able to confirm whether or not a permit is required for your project. If it is, it’s likely to add between $50 and $150 to your total cost. Keep in mind that you will need permits if you plan to install new electrical wiring or plumbing lines behind your new drywall.

If the holes in the plaster are small, you can fill them with layers of patching plaster until they’re filled. After it dries, you can sand the plaster and paint over it. If the hole is much larger, consider using bonding plaster first and then a layer of patching plaster, completing the process with sanding and a layer of paint.

The easiest way to tell if a wall is load bearing is to check if it’s an exterior wall or if it runs perpendicular to the joists above and below it (or parallel to beams). Exterior walls are almost always load-bearing, and walls that run under beams or parallel to them are also usually load-bearing. There are exceptions to these rules, and walls that don’t fit into these categories can still be load-bearing. If you’re unsure, hire a structural engineer to look at your home to assess whether or not the wall is structural.