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The easiest way to tell if a wall is load bearing is to check if it’s an exterior wall or if it runs perpendicular to the joists above and below it (or parallel to beams). Exterior walls are almost always load-bearing, and walls that run under beams or parallel to them are also usually load-bearing. There are exceptions to these rules, and walls that don’t fit into these categories can still be load-bearing. If you’re unsure, hire a structural engineer to look at your home to assess whether or not the wall is structural.

A freestanding brick wall that's only one brick thick can usually stand six to eight feet high. If you need a higher wall, it should be at least two bricks thick for adequate stability, and it might require a footing to support the added weight. Additionally, some areas have regulations and codes dictating how high a brick wall can be, so check with local code enforcers to ensure your proposed wall complies with any regulations.

Water can seep into porous materials like wood beams, floor joists, and roof rafters within minutes, but they’ll need to see prolonged exposure before you have structural damage. Mold can start growing within 24 hours, and mold can eat away at the structural components over time. Wood rot is more of a concern, though. Wet and dry rot are fungal infections that set in in moist conditions and rapidly deteriorate wood, causing major structural damage within just a few months in some cases.

The best way to determine if ceiling cracks are structural is to hire a ceiling contractor to inspect the cracks and provide a professional opinion. That said, you might be able to make an educated guess based on the size and appearance of the crack. Larger cracks, cracks accompanied by sagging or discoloration, and cracks that travel from the ceiling down the walls are all signs of structural issues.