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When starting the engine, you typically leave the choke on a snowblower in the "choke" or "closed" position. After starting, let the engine run for a few minutes to warm up. Then, gradually open the choke, moving it to the "open" or "run" position, allowing more air into the engine and transitioning to a normal fuel-air mixture. The exact duration varies based on the snowblower model and ambient temperature, but as a general rule, you should open the choke once the engine has stabilized and runs smoothly, typically within a few minutes.

If you do end up with frozen gutters, it's important to thaw them correctly. Thawing your gutters slowly is far safer than trying to break apart the ice. Once you get through the ice, bring in a gutter professional to check out the effectiveness of your heated system.

Yes, but it works best with lightweight snowblowers, the single-stage models or electric versions. Also, you need to have a rubberized intake edge on the ground and preferably rubberized auger paddles, not a metal version. Otherwise you may chip or damage the surface as you work. When it doubt, let the snow lie.

You can also use a snow blower on leveled gravel, but only if you carefully adjust the intake height so it doesn’t kick up the gravel and turn it into flying missiles.

Roof raking helps clear snowfall from your roof and, in turn, you hope that this prevents ice dams. But can roof raking actually cause them? Generally, no, it cannot. But you should note that while, in some cases, you might successfully prevent ice dams from forming near the edge of your roof by keeping it cleared with a roof rake, they could still form higher up on the roof, where you are unable to reach. This may leave you wondering: Does roof raking prevent ice dams? While it is not a 100% guaranteed way to prevent them, it does help.