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You can put drywall mud over paint to even out the surface or entirely resurface it. Sand the surface with 280-grit sandpaper, vacuum the debris and dust with a shop vac, and clean it with a slightly damp cloth. Allow the surface to dry. Apply drywall primer, especially if you’re skim-coating an entire wall. Apply the right type of drywall mud over the surface and smooth it with a trowel. Allow the layer to cure fully, then sand it before applying another layer or painting it.

There are a handful of reasons why your drywall anchors are breaking. Using the wrong type of anchor is the most common problem, so always make sure you’re using the best option for a particular project. That there are electrical wires or plumbing where you’ve placed an anchor or that your drywall is weak are two other possible causes. 

Which style of corner bead you choose—whether metal or paper-faced—depends on your preference and if you’re comfortable using metal-cutting tools and a hammer. Metal bead offers superior strength and durability but its installation is slightly more involved. We’d say for most cases, it’s better to use metal bead but if you’re not comfortable working with metal, paper-faced bead will work just fine. 

Furring strips, thin strips of wood or metal, are not always required for ceiling drywall installation. If the ceiling surface is even and in good condition, drywall can be directly attached to the ceiling joists using screws. However, furring strips become essential when dealing with irregular surfaces or when additional insulation or soundproofing is needed. They create a level substrate for attaching the drywall. Ultimately, the decision to use furring strips depends on the condition of the existing ceiling and the specific requirements of the project.