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Yes, concrete changes color while curing, moving from a dark shade when wet to a lighter shade once dry and fully cured. Wait at least 10 days after pouring the concrete to gauge the color of the final concrete. If the concrete remains dark or discolored after that period, reach out to your concrete contractor with questions.

Yes, you should screw your flange to the subfloor, including cement. The best way to get this done is to predrill holes into the concrete using a hammer drill and a ¼-inch concrete bit. Be careful when you’re ready to bolt your flange down, as you can accidentally crack it. You can avoid this issue by not installing the screws too deep. Or, you can opt for a flange with a stainless steel ring so you don’t have to worry about cracking the plastic.

Most of the time, you or your contractor will spray the concrete form and framework with a release agent or oil to prevent sticking. This is common practice with wood and steel forms. For insulated concrete forms, the styrofoam formwork often remains in place after construction, so you don’t need to treat it beforehand. Foam concrete forms made out of melamine also may not need treatment beforehand, as the material naturally won’t stick to the concrete after it’s cured.

Yes, concrete countertops are harder to maintain than other materials. You don’t have to stress about them every single day, but they need to be resealed at least once a year, if not multiple times a year. Concrete also stains easily, so you must clean spills immediately. Avoid harsh, acidic cleaning products, as they can damage the sealant. Finally, concrete is prone to cracking over time, requiring repairs.