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Deer can crawl under a fence if it has a gap of around 6 inches or more. Make sure to close all gaps at the bottom of your fence to keep deer out, and the bottom of the material should be tightly secured, or the deer will push right through it. As an added benefit, closing shorter gaps at the bottom of a fence can also keep rabbits out of your yard.

You’ll need to bury the garden fence about 1 foot underground. It’s tempting to save on materials by burying the fence just a couple of inches, but if you do so, determined pests will still be able to dig under the fence and access your plants. Burying your garden fence deep into the soil is an important step that allows you to attach a wire barrier to the fencing. 

Burrowing animals (like voles, moles, rabbits, and gophers) can’t dig or chew through this wiring, meaning that you’ll be keeping your prized petunias or your robust veggie garden from being eaten.

You can use pressure-treated wood for a horizontal fence, but you’ll need to purchase a thicker and higher-quality variety to ensure it doesn’t sag or warp after you install it. Use #2 pine grade lumber and boards and thicker dimensional lumber, such as a two-by-six. You’ll also need to use stainless steel or hot-dipped galvanized fasteners, as the chemicals in the treated lumber will cause regular galvanized fasteners to rust. 

The type of horse fence that’s most effective in the short term depends on your budget. Plastic fencing works as a temporary fence idea for those on a tight budget but doesn’t offer as much protection. Pipe fencing can be a short-term option as well. Despite its high cost, you can install and remove it easily if you need to relocate your pasture area.