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You should avoid cutting off the top of mature cherry trees. This process is called tree topping, and it’s not recommended for cherry trees—or any trees, for that matter. Tree topping removes between one-third to half of the length of the tree trunk, resulting in structurally unsound, fruitless suckers. The only exception is for saplings. Young pie, sour, and tart cherry trees that are over 30 inches tall in the fall or winter before the tree blooms can benefit from heading cuts.

You’ll have to balance up the cost, the value of the tree (sentimental or otherwise), and the risk factors. An experienced arborist will help you understand whether transplanting is likely to be successful. The cost and hassle of transplanting a large, well-established tree are often not worth it, especially if the species is fast-growing and easy to source. The decision depends on the age and species of the tree, the conditions in the new site location, and how careful the company is when digging out and moving the tree.

Generally, you should prune around 20% of an apple tree’s growth—and never more than 30%. This means that if you have a severely overgrown tree, it can take a few seasons to prune it back enough to produce the healthiest fruit. 

If you’re dealing with a newly planted or juvenile tree, hold off on pruning beyond the initial shaping. Wait at least a couple of seasons into fruit production since pruning can increase the number of water sprouts and unproductive foliage.

Trimming a tree can take anywhere from just two hours to a full day, depending on the age of the tree, the number of trees, and the species. Young trees are generally easier to trim, as their branches are often thinner in diameter and easier to reach compared to mature trees. They also tend to be healthier. If you haven’t trimmed your trees before or it’s been a while, the process could take even longer.