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Limewash and whitewash are two techniques used to give brick a light, matte finish, but they differ in composition, application, and permanence. The best choice depends on your aesthetic goals and the specific surface.

Composition

• Limewash: A natural and environmentally friendly option made from limestone, water, and sometimes pigments. It is breathable and soaks into porous surfaces like brick.

• Whitewash: Traditionally made from lime, water, chalk, and binders, but a similar look can be achieved with watered-down white paint. It is paint-based and sits on top of the surface.

Appearance and Finish

• Limewash: Provides a natural, textured appearance that allows the brick's character to show through. It offers a more traditional finish.

• Whitewash: Creates a softer, more opaque finish, often used for a rustic or shabby-chic style.

Application and Permanence

• Limewash: Is semi-permanent and can be removed, making it a good choice if you might want to change the look in the future. It requires more skill to apply and cannot be used on previously painted brick.

• Whitewash: Is a more permanent solution. It is more forgiving to apply and can be used on painted brick. However, because it sits on the surface, it can trap moisture.

Ultimately, if you want a breathable, natural, and reversible finish for unpainted brick, limewash is a great option. If you need a more permanent, opaque coating that can be applied over painted surfaces, whitewash is the better choice. Whitewashing may also be more economical, costing approximately $1.40 to $4.20 per square foot.

Whether you can paint over your existing paint depends on what’s on there. Most of the time, you’ll want to sand down or scrape off the paint that’s currently coating your surface. Epoxy paint, for example, won’t let new paint stick to the surface. Latex paint is more forgiving and will accept a new coat, but a primer is recommended if you’re switching colors.

Yes, it is generally a very good idea to seal your deck after pressure washing. Power washing removes not only dirt and debris but also a thin layer of wood, leaving the surface exposed and more susceptible to weathering. Sealing is almost always needed after this process. After a general cleaning, sealing isn't automatically necessary if the existing sealant is still intact. You can test the surface by placing a few drops of water on it. If the water beads up, the sealant is working. If it soaks into the wood, it's time to apply a new sealant. If it has been a few years, it's wise to remove the old sealant, wash the deck, and reseal for maximum protection.

There are deck restoration products and oil-based wood stains that can help bring back some of the color and shine to your faded Trex decking. However, if your boards are suffering from serious fading due to UV rays or chemical cleaning products, don’t expect miracles. Also, these products are only suitable for use on the older Trex boards, not the capped, second-generation Trex products.