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Yes, you can speed up the time it takes for plaster to dry, but it's important to do so carefully to avoid issues like cracking or crumbling. Proper ventilation is key; open a window or use a fan to circulate air in the room. Heat can also accelerate drying, but be cautious, as too much heat can cause the plaster to dry too quickly and crack. Check the plaster's packaging for the recommended drying temperature and set the room's thermostat accordingly. While managing humidity is important, avoid using a dehumidifier, which can remove moisture too aggressively and result in crumbly plaster.

Drywall can be installed directly on ceiling joists. In fact, this method is common in many construction projects. Drywall sheets are attached to the joists using screws, ensuring a secure and stable installation. Before attaching the drywall, it's important to mark the joist locations on the ceiling, allowing for accurate screw placement. Proper spacing between screws and careful taping and mudding of joints are crucial to creating a smooth and flawless ceiling surface. If the joists are in good condition and level, installing drywall directly on them is a practical and efficient approach.

Look for flaking paint or air bubbles that burst and then flake away. Paint will begin to flake after being exposed to minimal moisture or water, so it’s a good indicator of any water damage. If you notice your paint starting to flake, feel the plaster underneath to see if it is soft or damp.

The easiest way to tell if a wall is load bearing is to check if it’s an exterior wall or if it runs perpendicular to the joists above and below it (or parallel to beams). Exterior walls are almost always load-bearing, and walls that run under beams or parallel to them are also usually load-bearing. There are exceptions to these rules, and walls that don’t fit into these categories can still be load-bearing. If you’re unsure, hire a structural engineer to look at your home to assess whether or not the wall is structural.