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If a toilet is not properly vented, you could experience issues like poor drainage, slow flushing, frequent clogs, malfunctioning traps, gurgling noises, and the release of sewer gasses. If left untreated, all of these issues could lead to longer term structural damage or (in the case of sewer gasses) harmful health side effects.

Sealant doesn’t need to be applied to the bolts, but it can be a good way to stop an active leak in the moment. However, don’t rely on it as a cure-all; instead, make sure to fix the problem at the source by changing or tightening the bolts. 

If you do use sealant, make sure to spread it thickly and evenly across the bolts and the tank's porcelain.

Toilets typically connect to your main vent stack, a vertical pipe that runs through all finished levels of your home and exits through the roof. It’s located behind the walls, but if you have an unfinished basement or a utility closet, you may find a portion of it running the vertical length of the space. Some basement toilets use an air admittance valve instead, which is a small vent located in the wall directly behind the toilet that extends upward a few feet from the drain.

A standard toilet flange should fit snugly into the outflow pipe and sit level with the subfloor. Installing a new one without first removing the old one will make it impossible to form a seal and keep the toilet bowl bolted securely in place. 

However, if you’re dealing with leakage or wobbling because you’ve installed a new type of bathroom tile (making the floor taller), you may be able to avoid fully replacing the flange by opting for a toilet flange extender. Extenders typically come in kits for easy DIY installation, fit over the existing flange, and bring the drain connection higher.