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Traditional central air conditioning systems require ductwork to circulate air throughout the home. Alternatively, you can add air conditioning with a mini-split ductless air conditioning system, which can be just as energy efficient as a central air conditioner. This type of system consists of two units–an outside unit that holds the compressor and condenser and an indoor unit that holds an air-handler. With multi-zone ductless systems, there are multiple indoor air handlers tied to a single outdoor compressor/condenser, allowing the system to cool multiple rooms.

The size window AC you need depends on the BTU and the size of the room you’re cooling. For a room with 8-foot ceilings, look for about 20 BTU per square foot of the room. For example, a 12-by-12-foot room should have an air conditioner with 2,880 BTU. You can buy something slightly more powerful, but don’t overshoot the BTU for a small room, or you’ll waste energy and have higher bills.

Yes, a dehumidifier and air conditioner can be used simultaneously in a home. A dehumidifier can bolster an air conditioner’s efficiency. Typically, a dehumidifier is used when the air conditioner alone cannot keep a home’s humidity levels at a comfortable indoor humidity level, which should, ideally, be between 30% and 50%.

To diagnose a bad HVAC or AC damper, assess the airflow from your vents. For a manual damper, close it, run your system, and check for airflow. If air is still coming through the vents, the damper is likely faulty and needs repair or replacement. For an automatic damper, turn on your HVAC system and monitor the airflow and room temperature. Signs of a problem include low airflow, a room that won't maintain its set temperature, or a drafty feeling. If you suspect a faulty automatic damper, you may need to hire a professional for repairs.