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Some older homes have toilets in the basement to combat sewage backups. This type of toilet, also known as a Pittsburgh potty, acted as a safety valve over the incoming sewer line. If a line backed up, it would back up into the toilet because it was the lowest fixture in the home, keeping it out of sight and away from the finished areas of the house.

Basement toilets were also used by workers with messy jobs, like those who worked in coal mines or steel mills. This way, they could clean up and avoid tracking dirt through their home.

Yes, you can install a basement bathroom without breaking concrete by using an upflush toilet system, which includes a macerator pump. These systems sit on top of the concrete floor, so you don't have to drill into it to install plumbing. The macerator pump breaks up waste until it is soft enough to pass through a discharge pipe to the main sewage line. This method saves you time and money by bypassing the need to break concrete to connect drain pipes.

A standard toilet flange should fit snugly into the outflow pipe and sit level with the subfloor. Installing a new one without first removing the old one will make it impossible to form a seal and keep the toilet bowl bolted securely in place. 

However, if you’re dealing with leakage or wobbling because you’ve installed a new type of bathroom tile (making the floor taller), you may be able to avoid fully replacing the flange by opting for a toilet flange extender. Extenders typically come in kits for easy DIY installation, fit over the existing flange, and bring the drain connection higher.

Most codes require 15 inches on either side of the toilet's centerline (from the wall or vanity) and at least 21 to 24 inches between the toilet and the wall in front of it. These codes ensure that your toilet is easy to use and access, even in small bathrooms. Check your local building codes for the exact measurements required.